68 HO 4spd GTO all matching numbers Alpine Blue with Parchment interior

Rear quarter before

Front before

Parchment Interior Before

Note the Factory Headrests...RARE for 1968.

POP and Warranty book info

Recall letter for the fast idle cam on the carb.

Front Spring tags

Build sheet was under the Passenger side carpet.

Tag off of the Carpet was on the drivers side where the front and rear halves overlap.

Data plate October 3rd week 1967 body number 1570

Complete inner floor

The reddish color is a glue used to keep the underlayment or the carpet in place.

Run in the passenger side door jamb from the factory.

Note the spray pattern on the pass side Quarter

Tar board and Jute trunk divider

X inspection mark on the rear seat divider.

Dash paint differences

The top of the dash was originally 0 deg gloss black (Flat Black) and the bottom of the dash was semi gloss black. This clearly shows where the lower part was taped up.

Dash Paint differences 2

Another tape line behind the dash pad.

Pedals and Lower dash before

Heater box with a number stamped with paint

Original carb and idle stop solenoid

Overspray on the valve covers.

Fender Shims before Disassembly

Fender shims and washers painted Green, must be a thickness code?

Shim pack as installed

D-24 = Alpine Blue with Parchment Interior

This is so the Assembly line worker knew what color to spray the car and the dash. These markings were blacked out and would not have ben seen although most people put them on top of the firewall paint.

After cleaning the firewall with a toothbrush and degreaser

Olive Green

Front brake line retainers

light blue inspection mark on the top of the box and the pitman arm has Dark blue on the side of it.

Brake distribution valve after cleaning

Pass side A Arm and Brake Line

Idler Arm

Pass side A upper A Arm shaft

White mark on the driver side frame rail

Bottom of the floor midway back

Note the blue overspray on the floor

Runs from being dip painted originally.

The inner fenders and the radiator support were painted from the factory by being dipped in a large tank, when the parts were pulled out of the tank there would be runs on them on the direction that the parts were pulled out.

Emission decal location

Pass side radiator support

this is where the coolant service sticker was located

Pass side headlamp actuator after cleaning

Pass side endura from top and headlamp mount

Note the different colors of black... a blue black and a more chocolate black.

Sheet metal Date code

Overspray patterns with tape lines

Run on drivers side cowl

OEM Spatter paint

Factory Power Antenna

Trunk striker

Note where the trunk seal ends meet ... not in the center like most people put them.

Inpection Mark on the rear end

Yellow mark on Collar and blue marks on the pumpkin.

Yellow inspection mark on hte pass side axle tube

Orange mark on Axle

Brake Hardware

Orange mark on Axle

Brake Hardware

ZH Axle Code ...3.55 Safety Trac.

Yellow inspection Mark by fill hole

Yellow mark on housing

Dash was rusted and in need of TLC

After patching the corner.

Welded and ground for what seems like days to get this all fixed.

Patched wiper support and cowl

Cowl is all done.

Half of the dash is done.

Tig welder does one hell of a job!

Driver side lower rear window channel

This area was in bad shape, I had to fabricate new metal and patch extensively.

Driver side rear window channel from the package tray

Alot of tedious work, but it will be done right.

Drivers Corner With Glass Channel

Now the Channel is welded in place...next comes the lip that will be welded to the rear tray between the decklid and the rear glass.

Pass side rear window channel from the package tray

Again extensive patching required

Pass Corner with Glass Channel

Hand fabricated channel tig welded into place.

Rear Glass Channel Corners

I fabricated these by first making a template with paperboard... (seen under the pieces) next I cut some sheet metal and bent a 90 deg bend to make and L shape the correct length. Finally I used a Eastwood Metal Shrinker to shrink the lower lip (where the glass would actually sit) by repeating the shrinking process the piece actually curves into shape...it only moves a small amount at a time so it is very easy to get right... just keep test fitting. The top one is finished ...the bottom one is about 1/2 way done.